Free Rein - Brunch

 

On paper, there are a couple of things wrong with Free Rein and they both have to do with location.  First, they are located in a on Michigan Avenue in an area heavily frequented by tourists.  Adding to that, they are located in a hotel.  The problem with these things is that the owners/managers/designers can have a tendency to want to cater to everyone.  This leads to the urge to aim for the human equivalent of neutral gray.  Trying to please the largest amount of people dumbs down design and flavors and results in bland.  Luckily, this has not yet happened with Free Rein.  Operating in the newly opened St. Jane Hotel in the Carbon and Carbide Building, the building itself is an Art Deco masterpiece with black granite sides, green and grey terra cotta and gold and bronze trim.  The restaurant is located on the first floor and also features a lot of art deco design.  The front wall is green glass looking out to Michigan Avenue.  The typeface of the restaurant sign is stretched with geometric elements also showing a lot of Art Deco influence.  The dining room is big and open with hanging lights that reminded me of the Fortress of Solitude in Christopher Reeve's Superman or a collection of light sabers hanging in all directions.  The floor is wood tile laid out in squares and divided diagonally.  The tables were, for the most part, four tops in dark wood with comfortable wood chairs surrounding them.  The kitchen, run by executive chef Aaron Lirette, formerly of Michelin Starred Green River, was behind a glass wall which , while not precisely open, allowed diners to see the cooks and chefs working.

 

 

There was a Patisserie and Coffee Shop at the front of the restaurant where you could wait to be seated, but the coffee and pastries were also available in the dining room.  I ordered a cup of coffee and we had several pastries that we shared amongst ourselves.  We had a Canele, which looks like a mini bundt cake and has a crispy exterior and a soft and custardy interior, a Hazelnut Croissant, a Kouign Amann, a cake from Brittany described by the New York Times as the fattiest pastry in all of Europe.  It is a multi-layered pastry similar to a croissant, though shaped like a muffin, and in this case filled with Apple Pie filling and the name comes from the Breton language words for Butter and Cake.  We finished off with a Glazed Pumpkin Loaf.  They were all very good and we shared them all, though because of the delicacy of some of the pastries, some were more difficult to cut than others.  We did manage and they were all enjoyed by all.

My cocktail arrived about the same time as my main course and they were both very good.  My cocktail was called A Love Letter to Mexico.  It started with Mezcal and continued with Charanda, an alcoholic spirit made with Sugar Cane similar to Rum originating from Michoacan, Blackberry, Lime Bitters, and Marigold.  The drink was very red and had a bitter sweet flavor with a tart finish.  The Marigold was used as a garnish, though it did add a floral flavor to the drink.  My main course was a Duck Confit Hash that included Potatoes, Duck Confit, Brussels Sprouts, Onions, Mushrooms, Peppers, and two Fried Eggs.  It was very full flavor and it was a pleasure to eat.  I really enjoyed brunch here.  The space inside followed the classic look of the exterior, the service was excellent, as was the food.  I would definitely enjoy returning for brunch, dinner, or even a snack if I'm in the area.