Range

I had seen this restaurant many times when passing in Lincoln Park, but circumstances fell in a way that I was here at dinner time and I wanted to eat, so I decided to try Range out.  From the outside and not knowing anything about it, I guessed that it was going to be a golf-themed restaurant.  The building was white and looked similar to a golf clubhouse and the sign above the entrance was covered in Astro-Turf with Range off to one side as it were a driving range.  After I entered, my mind changed.  The space had a hardwood floor, an unfinished ceiling, white walls, and a lot of wooden furniture.  The place had the vibe of a neighborhood restaurant and the menu was very veggie-friendly.  I sat across from the bar and overhearing conversations, I heard a lot of talk about tennis and biking.  I decided to start things off with a cocktail called Space Cowboy which was made with Yuu Baal Mezcal, Calle 23 Tequila, Pur Pear Liqueur, Strawberry, Serrano Pepper, Lemon, and Mint.  There was a lot going on with this drink.  It did have a smoky aspect from the mezcal, but their was also a lot of fruit and citrus flavors, and both a spicy and minty finish, which I wouldn't have expected to work, but it really did.

For my appetizer, I was interested in a Parsnip Hand Pie, but they had run out, so I went with something that I was also very interested in, the Beet Tostadas.  While I like the ideal of Tostadas, they have a tendency to be pretty messy.  Having said that, I really like beets, so I would be fine with having to deal with the debris after eating the tostadas.  In addition to the beets, it also had Black Beans, Cilantro Pesto, Red Cabbage Slaw, Sour Cream, Sunflower Shoots, and Queso Fresco.  It was sweet and earthy, with a very fresh botanical flavor and a crunch from the tostada shell.  It was really good, even if I did have to use a fork to eat what was left after eating it by hand.

For my main course, I could have gone with a variety of burgers, sandwiches, or flatbreads, but The range platter just sounded too ridiculous not to try.  It had seven cheeses and four meats from some very good vendors, such as Zingermans, Great American Cheese Collection, and Smoking Goose, plus Raspberry Serrano Jam, Sliced Apple, and Baguette Toast from Hewn.  I could and did try things individually and in combinations and it was all very good.

There didn't seem to be anything exceptional on the dessert menu, Ice Cream, an Apple Fritter, and a Cake, though the cake was a bit odd, so I had to try it.  It was a Parsley Mint Cake with Lemon Whipped Cream, and Microgreens.  It was green, tasted very botanical (in fact, it kind of tasted like grass), and was a bit dense.  While I did eat it, I have to say that it was my least favorite dish.  The Lemon Whipped Cream did help, but I could have done with a wider range of flavors in the dessert.

I enjoyed my time here.  The drinks were very good, the staff was very friendly, and the platter was ridiculous, in a good way.  I will keep my mind open for Range as an option if I happen to be in the area.