Flat & Point

 

 

There are many barbecue joints in Chicago.  Most don't do a single style, but at least most of them now smoke their meat.  A new restaurant opened up in my neighborhood, that, while they serve meat from a smoker, and use a variety of sauces to go with the meat, doesn't call itself a BBQ joint.  Called Flat + Point, which refers to the to sides of a piece of brisket, they don't refer to themselves as a barbecue joint because, as the chef said, there are only two slabs of rib from each animal and there is a lot more than that from each animal that they also serve.  The outside of the space looked very modern.  The inside has hardwood furniture and floors and an open kitchen with wood stacked in front where you can see the smoker.  I came, with Tasting Collective, for a 6 course whole animal dinner, the animal, of course, being a pig.  Before dinner started, I started things off with a Mezcal Negroni.  Negronis are generally a gin cocktail, made with Campari, Vermouth, and garnished with an orange peel.  While I like gin, I generally tend away from Negronis because I am picky about the combinations and they will frequently come out too bitter (for me).  I have never met a Mezcal Negroni, though, that I have not liked.  The sweetness and smoke from the mezcal makes the drink more than just bitter and I like it a lot.  This was very good and a nice start for a meal that would have lots of smoked meats.

 

 Our first course was a charcuterie plate, which is a logical and easy way to use offal.  Our plate included a Head Cheese with Pig Ear, Noes, Jowl, Feet, and Tail, Pork Loin, Pickles, Hard boiled Eggs, Barbecue Sauce, and a Seeded Lavash (Cracker).  I had had head cheese before, it 's basically a pressed meat that includes leftover parts.  This was pretty good.  The loin was very tender and everything tasted very good.  The Lavash was delicate but flavorful and went well with the charcuterie. 

The second course was the salad, but it was also similar to a Bruschetta.  It was Pastrami Tongue Endive Salad with Candied Walnuts and Chive Vinaigrette.  The endives were served as single pieces with the tender pastrami tongue on top.  The walnuts provided some sweetness and a crunch and the vinaigrette added some sour.

Course three was pasta.  It was a Pork Shoulder Canneloni with Pork Jus, Mushroom Duxelle, and Pea Shoots.  It was kind of funny when the dish came out, with the color and shape of the pasta, it reminded me of a plate of bones topped with greens.  Despite what the menu said, I thought we were going to have a marrow dish.  Duxelle is a dish of minced mushrooms and herbs cooked down to a paste.  With the pork shoulder being pulled, it looked like everything inside the pasta shell had been through a grinder (which contributed to the look of a bone and the thought that we would be eating marrow).  In any case it was all very flavorful and I liked it a lot.

Our next course featured pork (like every other course),  though it wasn't a major part of the dish.  It started with Creamy Polenta topped with Grilled Asparagus and Crispy Pig Skin.  Polenta is interesting.  It is simply boiled corn meal with butter, similar to grits, but it seems to come in a variety of textures.  This polenta was firm, about the texture of oatmeal, and very flavorful.  The Asparagus was plentiful and very fresh.  The Pig Skin was broken into small pieces about the size of croutons and sprinkled over the top, like croutons, that added to the flavor.

By the time our entree arrived, we were starting to get full.  It looked a little overwhelming, especially after all that we he had so far eaten.  The meat was a roulade that was actually a Porchetta that was made with everything, Pork Belly, Ham Sausage, Liver, Kidney, and Fat Back, and served over Shredded Rutabaga (done in a sauerkraut style) and Apple Butter.  While everything on this plate was eaten, it definitely went slower than the early plates.

When we reached dessert, it was like a challenge as to whether we would be able to finish it or not.  When our plates arrived, the challenge was readily accepted.  We were served Pork Fat Brioche Chocolate Bread Pudding with Dulce de Leche.  This was very good, but pretty heavy, and I was glad that I was able to walk here because riding my bike would have been uncomfortable.  I really enjoyed my dinner here and am glad that it's really close.  I will definitely return with friends.